Jaemi B. Loeb
European Arts - American Sensibility
European Adventure 2015
July 19th - 22nd, 2015
I came to Florence to see as much Renaissance art as possible. I think I've succeeded.
My hotel here is much more convenient to attractions, but has given me less opportunity to see the "real" Florence that the locals live in. But, I did wander into a concert of the Italian Brass festival and going out with the players afterward gave me a chance to chat with some local musicians. If there's one thing I've learned in life, it's that you always say yes when a musician asks you to join the gang at the bar after a concert. I've spent most of the last few days in museums and churches, so I'll tell the story in pictures.
My hotel here is much more convenient to attractions, but has given me less opportunity to see the "real" Florence that the locals live in. But, I did wander into a concert of the Italian Brass festival and going out with the players afterward gave me a chance to chat with some local musicians. If there's one thing I've learned in life, it's that you always say yes when a musician asks you to join the gang at the bar after a concert. I've spent most of the last few days in museums and churches, so I'll tell the story in pictures.
Organ of San Luigi dei Francesci, where Caravaggio's St. Mathew paintings are
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At Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence
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My last Aperol Spritz before leaving Italy. I'll miss you!
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July 18th, 2015
Final Reflections from my visit to Rome
Rome is a fascinating city. It's been building on top of itself of thousands of years and its inhabitants are completely unaware how rare a gift that can be. It's a little confusing at first to see Baroque churches built into ancient ruins and a block of recently built apartment buildings next to 19th-century facades. But, after a few days, it starts to make a strange kind of sense. There isn't much of the city that doesn't have something of interest to some kind of tourist, so the summer crowds are pretty intense. With a little bit of an adventurous spirit, though, it's not hard to avoid being constantly surrounded by tourists.
Here are some tips to hep you on your next trip:
1- Buy a local SIM card with a data plan. There are pre-paid options that are reasonably priced and include data, minutes, and texts. Being able to use the map on your phone and make calls when needed gives you the freedom to wander and get lost without fear.
2- Take public transport. There was a mini strike going on during my visit, so the buses were a bit more unpredictable than normal, but it's still a good way to get around the city on a day to day basis. Just don't be fooled by the fact that nobody seems to put a ticket in the machine. There are random checks and if you're caught without a ticket, it's an automatic fine of a few hundred euro. There are a range of passes, depending on the length of your stay. Some of the buses have great signs that tell you what the next stop is, but not all of them do. So, you need to have an idea of where your stop is before you get on the buss. The signs at bus stops list the stops, but on some buses at some times, they will only stop when someone requests it. Don't worry too much about getting off in the wrong place. Most of the stops are fairly close together so if you over or under shoot by a stop, it will probably only ad 5 minutes to your walk.
3- Take a bus tour of some kind during your first day or so. The audio commentary is pretty informative, but more importantly, it will give you a sense of the geography of the city. That will help you to plan your days, and also help with the issue of knowing where your bus stop is.
4- Be aware, but don't be afraid. Yes, people on the street will try to sell you stuff and panhandlers will ask for money. There are also plenty of pickpockets. But, looking like a deer in headlights is a great way to signal that you're a tourist with lots of cash in your pocket. Take the same kind of precautions you would in any big city and try to avoid standing in a gaggle of tourists. Using the map on your phone helps here, since it means that you don't have to pull out a massive tourist map every 10 seconds. Also, the streets aren't always labelled very well, so GPS is kind of invaluable. I recommend a belt bag of some sort because its insanely convenient and something the locals wear. If you carry a purse or backpack, make sure it's closed securely and keep your wallet in an inner pocket.
5- Bring a water bottle. There is a complete lack of water fountains inside, but there are plenty of public fountains outside called Negroni. I was dubious of them at first, but clean tap water comes out of them nice and cold, so refilling your water bottle is pretty easy. Also, the tap water doesn't taste like chlorine, so bonus.
6- Know your priorities. Things are likely to take longer than expected and Rome really is a great town to just wander in, so don't pack your itinerary too tightly. If you know what's most important to you, you can avoid sweating the small stuff. To quote Elton John, there's more to see than can ever bee seen, so don't try.
7- In the summer, consider a siesta. It seemed to me that the buses got VERY crowded between about 3:30pm and 6:30pm. I suspect this is the conjunction of tourists heading towards dinner and locals heading towards a nap. The afternoon is a great time for a nap and a shower (it is absurdly hot and grimy, so showering in the morning is a waste) and if you head towards tourist things at 4pm, the crowds will have thinned a little bit.
8- APPERETIVO!!! This is by far my favorite thing about Italy. Dinner time is about 8-9pm, so around 6-7pm, restaurants and bars often have what amounts to the best happy hour ever. You buy a drink and get varying levels of food with it. As often as not, the munchies amounted to dinner for me, which saved a good deal of money. The Spritz Aperol is my new favorite thing in the universe, but you can usually get wine, beer, or one of a variety of cocktails and spritzes.
9- Avoid "tourist" food. This one is probably a no-brainer, but a restaurant that obviously caters primarily to tourists is likely to be over-priced. Signs of tourist-pandering are usually clear - "menu turistico" "traditional Roman food" any menu posted on the outside that has lots of English on it. You may have to walk a few blocks from an attraction to find a normal restaurant, but it will be worth it.
10- Learn some Italian. The people are very nice and many people speak English or Spanish. But, if you want to get off the beaten path a little, knowing some Italian is very very helpful. Even if you speak at about the level of a toddler (as I do), being able to understand what's being said to you and around you and read signs will not only make you feel more comfortable in your surroundings, but also help you explore those surroundings better. I highly recommend the Duolingo app.
11- People bring their dogs everywhere. It's pretty great. But, people tend not to talk to and pet strangers' dogs, which is sad. In fact, nice dogs will often bark in confusion when you go to pet them, since it's something that doesn't usually happen. If the dog is just sitting around with the owner, that's a better bet, but, as always, ask first.
1- Buy a local SIM card with a data plan. There are pre-paid options that are reasonably priced and include data, minutes, and texts. Being able to use the map on your phone and make calls when needed gives you the freedom to wander and get lost without fear.
2- Take public transport. There was a mini strike going on during my visit, so the buses were a bit more unpredictable than normal, but it's still a good way to get around the city on a day to day basis. Just don't be fooled by the fact that nobody seems to put a ticket in the machine. There are random checks and if you're caught without a ticket, it's an automatic fine of a few hundred euro. There are a range of passes, depending on the length of your stay. Some of the buses have great signs that tell you what the next stop is, but not all of them do. So, you need to have an idea of where your stop is before you get on the buss. The signs at bus stops list the stops, but on some buses at some times, they will only stop when someone requests it. Don't worry too much about getting off in the wrong place. Most of the stops are fairly close together so if you over or under shoot by a stop, it will probably only ad 5 minutes to your walk.
3- Take a bus tour of some kind during your first day or so. The audio commentary is pretty informative, but more importantly, it will give you a sense of the geography of the city. That will help you to plan your days, and also help with the issue of knowing where your bus stop is.
4- Be aware, but don't be afraid. Yes, people on the street will try to sell you stuff and panhandlers will ask for money. There are also plenty of pickpockets. But, looking like a deer in headlights is a great way to signal that you're a tourist with lots of cash in your pocket. Take the same kind of precautions you would in any big city and try to avoid standing in a gaggle of tourists. Using the map on your phone helps here, since it means that you don't have to pull out a massive tourist map every 10 seconds. Also, the streets aren't always labelled very well, so GPS is kind of invaluable. I recommend a belt bag of some sort because its insanely convenient and something the locals wear. If you carry a purse or backpack, make sure it's closed securely and keep your wallet in an inner pocket.
5- Bring a water bottle. There is a complete lack of water fountains inside, but there are plenty of public fountains outside called Negroni. I was dubious of them at first, but clean tap water comes out of them nice and cold, so refilling your water bottle is pretty easy. Also, the tap water doesn't taste like chlorine, so bonus.
6- Know your priorities. Things are likely to take longer than expected and Rome really is a great town to just wander in, so don't pack your itinerary too tightly. If you know what's most important to you, you can avoid sweating the small stuff. To quote Elton John, there's more to see than can ever bee seen, so don't try.
7- In the summer, consider a siesta. It seemed to me that the buses got VERY crowded between about 3:30pm and 6:30pm. I suspect this is the conjunction of tourists heading towards dinner and locals heading towards a nap. The afternoon is a great time for a nap and a shower (it is absurdly hot and grimy, so showering in the morning is a waste) and if you head towards tourist things at 4pm, the crowds will have thinned a little bit.
8- APPERETIVO!!! This is by far my favorite thing about Italy. Dinner time is about 8-9pm, so around 6-7pm, restaurants and bars often have what amounts to the best happy hour ever. You buy a drink and get varying levels of food with it. As often as not, the munchies amounted to dinner for me, which saved a good deal of money. The Spritz Aperol is my new favorite thing in the universe, but you can usually get wine, beer, or one of a variety of cocktails and spritzes.
9- Avoid "tourist" food. This one is probably a no-brainer, but a restaurant that obviously caters primarily to tourists is likely to be over-priced. Signs of tourist-pandering are usually clear - "menu turistico" "traditional Roman food" any menu posted on the outside that has lots of English on it. You may have to walk a few blocks from an attraction to find a normal restaurant, but it will be worth it.
10- Learn some Italian. The people are very nice and many people speak English or Spanish. But, if you want to get off the beaten path a little, knowing some Italian is very very helpful. Even if you speak at about the level of a toddler (as I do), being able to understand what's being said to you and around you and read signs will not only make you feel more comfortable in your surroundings, but also help you explore those surroundings better. I highly recommend the Duolingo app.
11- People bring their dogs everywhere. It's pretty great. But, people tend not to talk to and pet strangers' dogs, which is sad. In fact, nice dogs will often bark in confusion when you go to pet them, since it's something that doesn't usually happen. If the dog is just sitting around with the owner, that's a better bet, but, as always, ask first.
July 17th, 2015
Today was mostly dedicated to Baroque art (not unlike the past few days, I know). I began at the Galleria Borghese. It is almost an antidote to the Vatican museum. There was a bit of a crowd, but they limit how many people come in at one time (you reserve a space in advance usually), so it wasn't too much. Also, lots of people follow the audio tour, so it's pretty easy to find some quiet. The pace is simply a treasure trove of painting and sculpture. Every time I thought I had seen all the rooms, I realized I had missed one. There were more famous masterpieces per square foot than is at all reasonable, and many less well-known masterpieces as well. It was really surprising how close to the art people were allowed to be. Sculptures in the middle of rooms were nominally roped off, but you could easily reach out and touch anything in the gallery without stepping over a boundary. I don't recommend that, of course, but it was a singular experience to be able to look as close as I wanted and have plenty of time to ponder whatever struck my fancy.
After the Borghese Gallery, I made my way back to San Luigi dei Francesci. It was a bit of a walk, but I took my time and enjoyed getting to know the neighborhood where Caravaggio hung out. The walk began through the Borghese gardens, which were lovely and shaded. There was even a Ukrainian Bayan player who was really quite good. He played Mozart's Rondo all Turca, which is pretty impressive on an accordion-like instrument. San Luigi turned out to be quite a bit like Santa Maria ella Vittorio, except a little bigger and French. (The history of the French community in Rome is fascinating - check your local Wikipedia)
After San Luigi, I wandered through some other churches in the area, including one that also had a Caravaggio. On the way back to the hotel, I walked through the piazza in front of the Pantheon. It was about 6 pm, so there was a trio playing for tips as the tourists crowded through. They were ok. They ployed a little jazz and a few rock covers. Note, however, the $3,000 trumpet. The trumpet player wasn't anything exciting, so I can't figure out if he's a pro just chillin with some friends or if this trio is some sort of real band, or what the heck.
Today's art visits were nothing short of ecstatic. I love being able to take my time and wander around with the freedom to enjoy the unexpected.
After San Luigi, I wandered through some other churches in the area, including one that also had a Caravaggio. On the way back to the hotel, I walked through the piazza in front of the Pantheon. It was about 6 pm, so there was a trio playing for tips as the tourists crowded through. They were ok. They ployed a little jazz and a few rock covers. Note, however, the $3,000 trumpet. The trumpet player wasn't anything exciting, so I can't figure out if he's a pro just chillin with some friends or if this trio is some sort of real band, or what the heck.
Today's art visits were nothing short of ecstatic. I love being able to take my time and wander around with the freedom to enjoy the unexpected.
July 16th, 2015
Today ended up being more of a walking tour than I had planned. An old bass player friend from Houston is working on a cruise ship that docks nearby every Thursday, so we got to meet up after having not seen each other for about 5 years. His train was very late, so our itinerary was a bit curtailed. But, we stopped by the main Tumlare office and had coffee with Andrea Fiasco, who was still being very helpful and took St. Paul in the Wall. The Baroque Episcopalian church was the first non-Catholic church in Rome and is apparently a very good concert venue. The acoustics are lovely (not as live as the bigger churches) and it sits about 100 people, which is great for a visiting ensemble.
Then Parker and I had a nice, leisurely lunch at the Piazza della Republica. The piazza is made up of two curved Neoclassical colonnades that look out onto the ancient Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri. Of course, after catching up, we had to go see the church. Obviously, it's been redecorated a few times.
After leaving Parker at the train station, I journeyed to San Luigi del Francesci to see some Caravaggio, but it was closed. So, back up to Santa Maria della Vittorio where Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Theresa lives. The piece is smaller in person than I expected, but still deeply moving.
Then Parker and I had a nice, leisurely lunch at the Piazza della Republica. The piazza is made up of two curved Neoclassical colonnades that look out onto the ancient Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri. Of course, after catching up, we had to go see the church. Obviously, it's been redecorated a few times.
After leaving Parker at the train station, I journeyed to San Luigi del Francesci to see some Caravaggio, but it was closed. So, back up to Santa Maria della Vittorio where Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Theresa lives. The piece is smaller in person than I expected, but still deeply moving.
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Compared to the other churches I've seen in town, this Santa Maria is positively modest. It's certainly ornate and beautiful, but still on a human scale. After the crowds and noise of the city, it was nice to find a place where I could just sit and take in the beauty of the place. I sat for a long time, look at Bernini's St. Theresa and the other art around the church. Though I'm not particularly religious, and certainly not Catholic, the spiritual nature of the place made a real impact on me. I really began to understand what it means to glorify God in art. Even in the quiet, I could hear the ringing of a Josquin motet or a Gabrieli Sonata. Santa Maria della Vittorio was by far the art highlight of the day.
I ended the evening with dinner by my hotel and happened to sit next to two wonderful young women from England (about 2 hours from London). They had just finished their A levels and were on holiday to sort of pass the time while they waited for the scores that would determine their university plans. We chatted about all sort of things ranging from the politics of the Euro Zone to the particularly frustrating experience that is the Vatican museum. I think the most amusing moment was when they asked for recommendations for what to visit in America. Like I've said before, it's always fun to meet new people while traveling.
July 15th, 2015
The first half of the day was dedicated to the Vatican museum and the Sistine Chapel. My museum ticket included one of those sightseeing tour buses, which was probably the longest way possible to get there. But, the bus did have a great audio tour, and passed by many important sites that I wouldn't have taken the time to see individually. Even though it was filled with some of the world's great art, the experience of going to the Vatican museum was horrible. Perhaps nothing can be done about the absurd crowds, but the physical process of getting in and getting around (even with a "skip the line" ticket) is labyrinthine and absurd. To get to the Sistine Chapel, where they don't allow pictures, you HAVE to go through ALL the other collections and you are completely at the mercy for the crowds and massive tour groups in terms of whether you can stop and ponder, or whether to speed through. The oppressive heat didn't help my mood, of course, but the spectacular (though brief) views out of the windows helped.
Frustrating inefficiency aside, the art collection is, of course, singular. I was surprised to see some Matisse and Chagall in the contemporary art collection. The collection of ancient Egyptian art and artifacts is really impressive, but given that Egypt was essentially a colony of the empire that first built the Vatican, that makes some sense. I was struck by just how large some of the frescoes I came for really are and how precisely Raphael, Michelangelo, and gang calculated perspective for images that are 20 feet high and start 5 feet off the ground. I was especially fascinated by the scale of the various frescoes on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Many were bigger than I expected, and several were smaller. If you can find an official video of the chapel made by the Vatican, it's really worth a look.
Frustrating inefficiency aside, the art collection is, of course, singular. I was surprised to see some Matisse and Chagall in the contemporary art collection. The collection of ancient Egyptian art and artifacts is really impressive, but given that Egypt was essentially a colony of the empire that first built the Vatican, that makes some sense. I was struck by just how large some of the frescoes I came for really are and how precisely Raphael, Michelangelo, and gang calculated perspective for images that are 20 feet high and start 5 feet off the ground. I was especially fascinated by the scale of the various frescoes on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Many were bigger than I expected, and several were smaller. If you can find an official video of the chapel made by the Vatican, it's really worth a look.
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After the crowds of the Vatican, I didn't have it in me to take on St. Peter's, where the crowds were worse. The piazza was gorgeous, though a bit smaller than I expected and COMPLETELY devoid of shade. So, I returned to the Great Synagogue; there the Jewish Museum of Rome was open this time. There was a really interesting tour of the synagogue, which at one time housed five separate congregations because Jews were not allowed to own more than one building. It was rebuilt in the early twentieth century, after the ghetto was destroyed around the turn of the century. The sheer opulence of the place is shocking for someone used to small, fairly simply decorated synagogues. Being able to sit for a moment and take it in was quite welcome - exactly what I missed in the Vatican. I'm still trying to figure out what the distinct Italian Jewish practice and culture is all about, since it has a unique history and differs greatly from other traditions. More investigation is clearly necessary and may include attending services to learn the unique melodies they use 'round here.
Before heading back towards my hotel for a rest or some dinner, I wandered into the Torre Argentino archeological site. It's basically a big hole in the ground that with rulings sticking up that you can look at. That is where Julius Cesar was killed. Today, it's apparently been taken over by stray cats, so there's a cat shelter/rescue/adoption place right among the ruins. I stopped in to pet the cats and was glad to see that they are just like American cats - very sweet when they want to be.
July 14th, 2015
I arrived at about 2 PM, and found my hotel. It's a bit out-of-the-way, relative too many tourist attractions, but the straightforward and very convenient bus system makes it all work. In fact, staying a little out of the main action is turning out to be a great opportunity to get to know Rome as a living city, not just a series of museums. The neighborhood I'm staying in appears to be in the process of hipsterizing, so there are plenty of good food and drink options with great people watching opportunities. The neighborhood is called Pigneto and I'm staying on the Piazza Pigneto.
As I often do, I went out exploring once my stuff was stashed. I walked around the area of the Termini station for a while and stumbled on one of the big churches I plan to visit (Santa Maria Della Vittoria). It was late in the day, so I just admired from the outside. Then made my way towards the main synagogue (Tempio Maggiore), which is in the historic ghetto and therefore surrounded by kosher restaurants. I don't keep kosher (as evidenced by the shocking variety of ham I've been eating), but I like to try out local Jewish cuisine wherever I go. The synagogue is nestled among historic churches and archaeological sites, including the spot where Julius Cesar was killed. So, there were a surprising number of non-Jewish tourists haunting the little pedestrian area where the kosher restaurants sit. But, it was still a relatively quiet spot, with great people-watching, since tourists and locals mixed freely.
As I often do, I went out exploring once my stuff was stashed. I walked around the area of the Termini station for a while and stumbled on one of the big churches I plan to visit (Santa Maria Della Vittoria). It was late in the day, so I just admired from the outside. Then made my way towards the main synagogue (Tempio Maggiore), which is in the historic ghetto and therefore surrounded by kosher restaurants. I don't keep kosher (as evidenced by the shocking variety of ham I've been eating), but I like to try out local Jewish cuisine wherever I go. The synagogue is nestled among historic churches and archaeological sites, including the spot where Julius Cesar was killed. So, there were a surprising number of non-Jewish tourists haunting the little pedestrian area where the kosher restaurants sit. But, it was still a relatively quiet spot, with great people-watching, since tourists and locals mixed freely.
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In my wandering, I met an array of wonderful people. There were several Australian families, a local man who had been a Pashtun interpreter for the American army in Afghanistan, and the young guy visiting from Milan. I love chatting with people while traveling, though it takes time to learn who to trust. The good news is that strangers usually speak to me in Italian, so at least I don't stand out as an American tourist. The bad news is that they often ask for directions, so I'm sort of useless.
July 13th, 2015
Today I had mostly free time to wander the city of Cremona on my own. I really have grown fond of the place, and I will be sad to leave tomorrow. It seems like everywhere you look there is some venue or other suitable for concerts both indoor and outdoor. Even though there are many draws for tourists, even beyond the obvious musical ones, the city seems to have a real vibrant sense of identity and community beyond a tourist destination. I highly recommend a stay in the birthplace of Stradivarius to anyone traveling in Italy.
Inside the famous Cremona Cathedral, in the center of the city.
Ending the day with an Aperitif (which always comes with nibbles) in the Cathedral square.
Inside the famous Cremona Cathedral, in the center of the city.
Ending the day with an Aperitif (which always comes with nibbles) in the Cathedral square.
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July 12th, 2015
The day was off to a promising start with breakfast at the hotel.
We began with a fascinating visit to the workshop of Israeli-Italian luthier Yael Rosenblum. (www.rosenblumviolins.net).
She makes copies of Stradavarius, Amati, and Guarneri violins using her expert knowledge as a professional violinist to inform her work.
Then came the Museum of the Violin.
The museum itself is particularly well-designed and well-curated.
(No photos allowed, inside, so visit www.museodelviolino.org for images.) The building, from the 1930s, was only recently renovated and turned into a museum. The collection of historic and rare instruments is unparalleled, as is the collection of tools and other paraphernalia from Stradivarius's workshop. The highlight, though, is the acoustically and aesthetically staggering auditorium where young local musicians demonstrate instruments from the collection in 20 minute concerts throughout the day.
We began with a fascinating visit to the workshop of Israeli-Italian luthier Yael Rosenblum. (www.rosenblumviolins.net).
She makes copies of Stradavarius, Amati, and Guarneri violins using her expert knowledge as a professional violinist to inform her work.
Then came the Museum of the Violin.
The museum itself is particularly well-designed and well-curated.
(No photos allowed, inside, so visit www.museodelviolino.org for images.) The building, from the 1930s, was only recently renovated and turned into a museum. The collection of historic and rare instruments is unparalleled, as is the collection of tools and other paraphernalia from Stradivarius's workshop. The highlight, though, is the acoustically and aesthetically staggering auditorium where young local musicians demonstrate instruments from the collection in 20 minute concerts throughout the day.
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We heard a young violinist named Damiano Barreto playing the "Vesuvius" Stradivarius of 1727. The homogeneity of color and liquid sound were nothing short of revelatory. Instruments that old are always a bit finicky, but Mr. Barreto clearly knew how to handle it. The particular quirks of the instrument worked perfectly for the excerpt from the Elgar Violin Concerto and Paganini's 24th Caprice, enhancing the subtlety and virtuosic fireworks at the same time. I think it was less suited for Kreisler's Praeludium and Allegro, though the Kreisler Waltzes were more successful.
Despite what I knew about these kinds of instruments, I was still surprised by how strongly it favored legato and how much work seemed to be required for any kind of short, separated articulation. I was also shocked at just how delicate a sound it could make and how completely even the tone color is. In hearing this short concert, I began to understand exactly why the violin developed by Amati and continued by the Stradivari and Guarneri families stormed the world in the 16th century.
In the evening, we saw a concert in the courtyard of the Palazzo Trecchi, which was built in the Middle Ages, then renovated in the 19th century by an apparently eccentric Marquise. The courtyard has a beautiful simplicity almost exactly opposite of the opulent interior.
July 11th, 2015
My first day in Italy has absolutely proven what a teacher used to tell me - once you go to Italy, you'll always go back. My flight arrived early, shockingly enough, so the day began with a leisurely drive from the airport in Milan to the hotel in Cemona with a stop at a wonderfully 60s truck stop for breakfast on the way.
My guide, Andrea Fiasco, who met me at the airport has been really making me feel welcome. It is both weird and wonderful to be treated as a VIP. I can't thank Tumlare enough for their hospitality. I am quite sure they will make exceptional hosts for my class and any ensemble tours I plan in the future.
After freshening up at the hotel, we went to Casalmaggiore to see the opera house, which these days is more of a general concert venue. It was built in the traditional Italian style, and so has a surprising kind of intimacy, despite its grandeur.
From there, we traveled to Busetto, birthplace of Verdi. The Teatro Verdi was as beautiful and opulent as one would expect.
My guide, Andrea Fiasco, who met me at the airport has been really making me feel welcome. It is both weird and wonderful to be treated as a VIP. I can't thank Tumlare enough for their hospitality. I am quite sure they will make exceptional hosts for my class and any ensemble tours I plan in the future.
After freshening up at the hotel, we went to Casalmaggiore to see the opera house, which these days is more of a general concert venue. It was built in the traditional Italian style, and so has a surprising kind of intimacy, despite its grandeur.
From there, we traveled to Busetto, birthplace of Verdi. The Teatro Verdi was as beautiful and opulent as one would expect.
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And of course the town is filled with Verdi-related attractions, such as the Cafe Verdi. It's crammed with Verdi paraphernalia, but the fact that many tourist stop there has not lowered the quality of their artisanal hams and cheeses. They serve wine in little bowls, so you know they have their priorities straight.
After a brief rest back at the hotel, we visited some concert venues in the Chamber of Commerce building in Cremona. The building itself is a wonder of 1920s Fascist styling.
Then we sat in the 12-century Duomo square for an aperitif before wandering off to the best restaurant in the city, Hosteria 700.
The quality and flavor of the food here is simply beyond words.
Check out the adventures in Manchester, UK
After a brief rest back at the hotel, we visited some concert venues in the Chamber of Commerce building in Cremona. The building itself is a wonder of 1920s Fascist styling.
Then we sat in the 12-century Duomo square for an aperitif before wandering off to the best restaurant in the city, Hosteria 700.
The quality and flavor of the food here is simply beyond words.
Check out the adventures in Manchester, UK
I am the Director of Instrumental Ensembles at Centre College in Danville, KY.
Among other things, I conduct the orchestra and the wind ensemble and teach various classes. My graduate training was in orchestral conducting, but I grew up playing in both band and orchestra and spent my college years conducting both types of groups as well as musical theater.
Among other things, I conduct the orchestra and the wind ensemble and teach various classes. My graduate training was in orchestral conducting, but I grew up playing in both band and orchestra and spent my college years conducting both types of groups as well as musical theater.
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A career in music called to me at a young age, but never to the exclusion of broader learning and a connected understanding of how music functions in society. Wearing many hats obviously comes naturally to me, so conducting at a small liberal arts college is a perfect fit. I’m a native of Connecticut, but I’ve lived outside of the northeast since I graduated from college in 2003. When people ask what I play, I usually say French Horn, but I played violin and then viola for about 20 years and have dallied in more instruments than I can count.
Want to know more? Check out my personal website or my ensembles’ website. |
Jaemi B. Loeb, D.M.A.
Director of Instrumental Ensembles
Music Director, Centre College Orchestra
Music Director, Centre College Wind Ensemble
Director of Instrumental Ensembles
Music Director, Centre College Orchestra
Music Director, Centre College Wind Ensemble
